Had a great nice little longboard session yesterday evening!! There was rumour of some ripples, the sun was out and after i put the little ladys to bed i got on my bike and rolled to the beach. Got there by 8.30, suited up and ran to the beach.
Found some nice little shorebreak waves: they started to build in chest deep water, got a little hollow quick, and when you made that the fin was already draggin through the sand. Gooooooood practise though for a kook like me, and i have sore muscles right now. NICE!!!!!! First time this year without the hood and gloves!
Got really spooked too yesterday (i get spooked easilly, so nothing special): at one point i was standing in chest deep water eyes on the horizon for the bigger ripples when i sensed something in the water with me, saw some swirles in a wave and something shadowy, and sensed it coming toward me.
Probably a seal (wich we have quite a lot of here) but i can't help getting pretty clear jaws-like visuals in my head on moments like that. Later on i saw little fish jumping out of the water, and the standard black things popping up in the corners of my eye and you know what time it is. Got me excited for a bit, though!
So Mister Seal, if you read this, next time you see me please stick your head out of the water an introduce yourself and don't sneak up on me. Thanks, highly appreciated!
And thanks Ed for letting me borrow your board!
吉原/赤線跡/カフェー建築/山谷/SWOON/ESOW - [image: IMG_7352C][image: L1080955C][image: L1080956C][image: L1080957C][image: L1080959C][image: L1080960C][image: L1080961C][image: L1080962C][image: L10...
1 hour ago