The great thing about having a family with little kids is that i am used to waking up early :) Since mister Soul and Power is in the same situation he picked me up (thanks to my wife who woke up early as well)on satarday morning when most people were still sleeping and went to a spot i seldom surf cause it's almost impossible to get to by public transport.
Most of the time it is pretty crowded too, so it was a good thing to go early.
The break is next to a long jetty, and although it doesn't get very hollow (which i don't mind to be honest) the waves roll a longer distance and have more mass behind them then i am used to at the places where i surf most of the time.
So i took along my daisyfish prone alaia and big dive fins and dove in. The waves were really nice in the 3 to 4 ft range and there were only a handfyull of people in the water. After swimming out to where most of the longboarders were sitting and finding out where the waves broke the steepest (i need some push for the take off since my board has hardly any float) and by kicking like a madman i managed to get in quite a few nice ones. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah great session!
Mr. Soul and Power took some shots frome the Jetty with his phone, and most of the little specks on the pictures is me :) I really like how the pictures came out in all their low-fi grittiness.
吉原/赤線跡/カフェー建築/山谷/SWOON/ESOW - [image: IMG_7352C][image: L1080955C][image: L1080956C][image: L1080957C][image: L1080959C][image: L1080960C][image: L1080961C][image: L1080962C][image: L10...
1 hour ago