Monday, October 12, 2009

BREAKING NEWS: I CUDDLED A SEAL!

Well, not cuddled really, but more like accidently 'touched' and i'm not 100 percent sure that it was a seal :) I was bodysurfing the shorebreak and standing in chest deep water when i touched something underwater next to me that felt solid and whiskery. WOW! So they come pretty close! Who says that we are out of "touch" (bad pun sorry) with nature hahaha

I went to the beach last sunday with a friend, and when we got there there was a 1 mtr windswell running wich resulted in a nice shorbreak with the high tide.
I brought my biiiig smallwave skull paipo:



and learned quite some things about it while surfing in the shorey.

1. Bigger is not always better :) especially not when the waves get steep. The board planed quick and easy but was hard to control when the wave got steep.

2. When the waves get steep, you don't need fins/skegs/keels at all, when you have a nice sharp rail. In these conditions my keels were to big and i got hung up in the lip and rolled :D

3. The long keels made the board track too much so í'm going to cut 'm down a bit. At the moment they're like this and run almost the full length of the board:



and i'm going to make them a bit more like this:



I had the biiig skulls small version with me to so after being rolled for the x time i went bodysurfing and had a blast! Soooooo much fun!



speaking of bodysurfing with a handplane, i'm going to try a new handgrip that popped up in my head yesterday:



i also tested my new short "winter" fins. They fit over my 4 mil. boots and work great:

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The Monsterboards Movie by Matthew McGregor-Mento and Eef

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