I got an email from my friend Matt from NYC wich stokes me out completely!! One of the coolest and most inspiring surfclips i've seen in a long time. Go Matt!!!
Matt from NYC here. Wanted to send you a little video my friend shot this
weekend. I went out east to Montauk with a 5'4" swallow tailed single fin.
Waves were biggish and period was short. Sort of a paddling nightmare for
my little board and weak arms. Finally made it out but waves were peaky and
breaking all over the place. Seemed to be in the wrong place all the time.
Went back in to get some fins to kneeboard it but even that didn't help my
luck. Feeling tired and frustrated I went in.
Passed a big pile of driftwood on the beach and remembered I had seen a
small piece of ply in there. Decided to rest for a minute and give the ply
a go. I was a little worried that I would get out there with the driftwood
ply and get even more knocked around then I had with the board. But of
course the opposite was true. Paddling out was a snap and catching waves
was easy. I immediately got more rides and had more fun than I had for the
hours I spent paddling, seemingly in place, on the board. Kind of makes we
wish I had started with the plywood and left the board at home. Lessons
片原町/横丁/路地裏/高松 - [image: L1230383C][image: IMG_1350C][image: IMG_1352C][image: IMG_1353C][image: IMG_1354C][image: IMG_1355C][image: L1230385C][image: L1230387C][image: L12...
7 hours ago