Friday, December 25, 2009

maybe i AM mad

i woke up this morning to a fresh layer of snow and rain. At least it was not freezing anymore :) I had the opportunity to roll to the beach today and there were rumours about maybe some waves late in the morning. I plowed my cargobike though the mush to the nearest main road and got underway.

Once out of town i discovered there was QUITE some wind from the northeast, and the rain increased. Why am i doing this i wondered. After some inner dialogue i settled on some kind of addiction, or just madness.
After battling mush, wind and rain for about an hour i arrived at the beach and was greeted by an nice rolling shorebreak. The waves hit the beach on a nice angle, no barrels, but no closeouts either! YES!!

Atfter changing into my suit i said hi to the sea and waded in. The wind was blowing in the same direction as the tide-current so the waves were not only not closing out, they were in pretty good shape, too! The only downside was that the water over the sandbar felt like a river pulling at my legs when i walked in.

I had some very nice bodyslides with my new handboard, and when i came in a kitesurfer arrived at the beach. So at least i was not a lone madman today. Hah!


Can't wait till next time.


mamutopia said...

die hard! :)

DH said...

Of course you're mad, in fact it's one of your best qualities. And I'm not just saying that... I took a survey and, on average, nine out of ten of the voices in my head agree.

Normal people are boring. 'Crazy' they say! 'Hypothermia' they say! Bah! Who are they to limit your reality?

Seriously though, keep doing your thing; I envy your tenacity.

Stay Stoked,
DH - SurfProne

Eef said...

ha thanks!

click to enter++++++

The Monsterboards Movie by Matthew McGregor-Mento and Eef

The Monsterboards Movie by Matthew McGregor-Mento and Eef
click picture to watch

stuff i read on a daily basis

click picture to read online

T-shirts Europe

T-shirts Europe
click picture to go to the shop

T-shirts USA

T-shirts USA
click on the image to go to the shop!