Had a great bodysurf this morning!! I was raining, grey and onshore, but the tide was high wich made for a nice and sizable shorey. I saw some nice little tunnels and managed to get into one in the end: a split second view of this greenbrown roof flying over my head befor getting eaten. AWESOME!!!!!!
The combination of the rip and the shorebreak offered some tiny wedgelike waves too. Soooo good: riding a wave with two walls that you can switch between.
For most of you these waves would be absolutely tiny, but for me it feels like pipeline :D
The Focus of a Monk
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By Leo Babauta As I write this, I’m on a long plane ride — I’ve written
many posts on planes and trains, and I find it actually much easier to
write this...
17 hours ago
1 comment:
super shaka
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