Last sunday mornig i got a ride to the beach from my sister in law and her boyfriend. They went for a run on the beach and i suited up. When we just got there it was cloudy, and it had just stopped raining. Nobody on the beach except for the soccerteam that is there all year rond, at nine in the morning, every sunday.
I had planned to go bodysurfing with a big handplane and since there was hardly any wind there was a waist to chest high clean shorebreak running, and on some waves i spotted tiny barrels!
I entered the water and then it happened: the clouds above the beach started to part. When i looked left and right the clouds were still there, but not above my head. And then the sun started shining! I pulled into a few of the microbarrels and got one of the best views of my life (before being closed out upon): the sun shining straight into the tiny barrel turning it into a golden cylinder. It was alomst too much to behold: first the clouds parting to let the sun throug, and then these sun lit golden barrels. Have you ever had the feeling that you have been handed a present by the universe, that makes you want to scream THANK YOU to the seas and skies? I surely felt like that right there. That feeling of grattitude, bliss and beauty still resonates. Thanks soooo much!
Pinder's News Letter from Honolulu Hawaii * Todd is going to San Diego for shaping*** - Aloha! トッドの今年1回目となるサンディエゴトリップのお知らせです。 4月15日から27日の約2週間です。 過去2回のトリップで、トッシュとジョエルに作った4モデルをおさらいします。 1. GSN(Golden Square Noserider) 2. Hustler(ハスラーと読みます。元々はMast...
1 day ago