Today greeted me with strong winds, but also a clear sky and sunshine. It was almost warm! I loaded up the cargobike with westsuit, gloves, booties, hood and XXL handplane. After battling the winds i got to the beach and jumped in. The current caused by the strong cross-shore winds made standing in the shorey feel like standing in a river :D
The bigger waves broke outside and reformed in a nice and hollow shorey. Lots of closeouts, but plenty of waves that stayed open too! I didn't mind the cold of the water too much today somehow and enjoyed my rides very much. Then at the end of the session when i wanted to catch my last wave i went on a nice hollow reform in the shorebreak, chose my line and to my complete surprise i saw it get hollower and hollower, the lip threw over my head and i was in a small barrel. Wall to my left, curtain to my right. It seemed to last forever. It looked like the barrel had no opening anymore but then there was some water in my face and i was out!!! And still going!!
My mind was blank for a while and then i dawned: i made it out of my first barrel today. THANK YOU SEA!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
it's still not completely sunk in. wow.
大井町/東小路飲食店街/平和小路/飲食街 - [image: IMG_3481C][image: IMG_3482C][image: IMG_3484C][image: IMG_3487C][image: IMG_3485C][image: IMG_3488C][image: IMG_3489C][image: IMG_3492C][image: IMG...
10 hours ago