Last sunday (january 2nd) i had my delayed newyears surf and it was lovely! Cold, but lovely. Went for a bodysurf with the aid of my oversized skull handplane / mini paipo, several layers of rubber, two hoods, gloves, booties and a thick layer of vaceline cream on my face :)
The sun was out, the waves were a little bigger than i would prefer normally haha and they were steep and dumping. Couldn't get out in the beginning because i couldn't bring myself to duckdive, but when i was bowled over a few times and rinsed a little anyway the fun was back duckdiving skills too and i caught a few very nice ones.
Hope you all got a great newyears surf too!
Quick Surf Satrday Morning*** - 小波ながらも周りが全てショートボーダーというアウェイ感の中でしたが、ピークからしっかり良いセットを何本か気持ちよくライディングさせていただきました。セット以外の波はモモ程度でボトムへの落差がしっかり取れずブレイク自体も早いのでエッジボードの独特な面白さははっきり実感できませんでしたが、キャッチの早さやこの...
7 hours ago