Last sunday (january 2nd) i had my delayed newyears surf and it was lovely! Cold, but lovely. Went for a bodysurf with the aid of my oversized skull handplane / mini paipo, several layers of rubber, two hoods, gloves, booties and a thick layer of vaceline cream on my face :)
The sun was out, the waves were a little bigger than i would prefer normally haha and they were steep and dumping. Couldn't get out in the beginning because i couldn't bring myself to duckdive, but when i was bowled over a few times and rinsed a little anyway the fun was back duckdiving skills too and i caught a few very nice ones.
Hope you all got a great newyears surf too!
The Focus of a Monk
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By Leo Babauta As I write this, I’m on a long plane ride — I’ve written
many posts on planes and trains, and I find it actually much easier to
write this...
13 hours ago
1 comment:
still life with shaka!
finally got my new year's surf on today. fun was had. i surfed by myself, the people around me weren't too happy about it.
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