Last sunday (january 2nd) i had my delayed newyears surf and it was lovely! Cold, but lovely. Went for a bodysurf with the aid of my oversized skull handplane / mini paipo, several layers of rubber, two hoods, gloves, booties and a thick layer of vaceline cream on my face :)
The sun was out, the waves were a little bigger than i would prefer normally haha and they were steep and dumping. Couldn't get out in the beginning because i couldn't bring myself to duckdive, but when i was bowled over a few times and rinsed a little anyway the fun was back duckdiving skills too and i caught a few very nice ones.
Hope you all got a great newyears surf too!
東一市場/アーチ/仙台 - [image: L1260973C]
15 minutes ago