I had a very nice roll through the woods to my local last monday for a surf. Wich was very nice because i hadn't been in the water since new york (flue, family business). When i got to the beach i was greeted by a sky with beautifull clouds, and a strong onshore that created some nice waves.
I jumped in and got shocked: ice cream headache, and my feet went numb pretty soon. How could the watertemp have dropped so quickly. Duckdiving was suddenly no fun and bodysurfing did feel a quite cold activity too in my 3/2. I got completely spoiled by summer and turned in a total wuss in just a few months ahahahaa! Time to toughen up buddy!
So i fought the temptations of a warm cuppa tea and walked along the beach where i found a channel through the sandbar where the waves would roll through and make a nice hollow shorey, even at low tide. Got a few nice and steep ones, and even had a GREAT although very short view of what was going to be a barrel of sorts before i pearled and went over the rather chilly falls. These little steep shorebreak walls made my day and i went for tea with a broad smile on my face.
No comments:
Post a Comment