Last sunday mornig i got a ride to the beach from my sister in law and her boyfriend. They went for a run on the beach and i suited up. When we just got there it was cloudy, and it had just stopped raining. Nobody on the beach except for the soccerteam that is there all year rond, at nine in the morning, every sunday.
I had planned to go bodysurfing with a big handplane and since there was hardly any wind there was a waist to chest high clean shorebreak running, and on some waves i spotted tiny barrels!
I entered the water and then it happened: the clouds above the beach started to part. When i looked left and right the clouds were still there, but not above my head. And then the sun started shining! I pulled into a few of the microbarrels and got one of the best views of my life (before being closed out upon): the sun shining straight into the tiny barrel turning it into a golden cylinder. It was alomst too much to behold: first the clouds parting to let the sun throug, and then these sun lit golden barrels. Have you ever had the feeling that you have been handed a present by the universe, that makes you want to scream THANK YOU to the seas and skies? I surely felt like that right there. That feeling of grattitude, bliss and beauty still resonates. Thanks soooo much!
Surfing *Before GW Holidays***
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ゴールデンウィーク前、4月23日は妙義山へ。戻った翌日は身体を休めつつ、東京でガーミンのGPSウォッチのトラブルの確認&修理の準備、そしてショッピングなどなど。
そして25日は朝ゆっくりと東京を出発し、トゥルーピーで南房総へ。
午後の緩やかなオンショアのお気に入りのポイント。形の良いピークには誰一...
10 hours ago
6 comments:
Such a good story Eef! I know exactly the conditions you're describing! It feels like the whole ocean exists just for you!!!!
Peace!
BJ.
Aaaaarghh! I just read it again...GOLDEN BARRELS!!!!! I just love those days!!!!
that's soooo good! I had a hard time explaining sometimes so good to hear i'm not the only one!
Eef
So perfect.
You've earned it by being there when the ocean is in not such a good mood.
In the movie the Shawshank Redemption they say that "the Pacific has no memory".
I sometimes think that on the other hand the Atlantic not only has a memory but also sometimes holds a grudge.
What a great story, thanks for sharing, Eef. We value such moments in time, too, and you described the joy so well! We enjoy your art and blog.
'Sending smiles from foggy San Diego.
Aloha, Cher and Steve
www.pendo.com
thanks!!!!
Eef
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